Thursday, July 07, 2011

Tonto Creek - June 28 - July 1


For anyone wanting to attempt this trip, I have to issue a disclaimer. This is a true wilderness experience for intermediate level or higher outdoor enthusiasts. As the sign at the trailhead attests, if you get hurt back here, you are probably on your own for at least several days, maybe period. There are long swims, some sketchy down climbing, and lots of tough, tough slogging. Go when temps are in the 90s or 100s so you don't risk hypothermia. Excellent footware is a must; I suggest the 5.10 Canyoneering shoe. You'll need a pack with grommets to drain water or you'll be breaking your back after every swim triples the weight of what you are carrying. Dry bags inside the pack will keep your gear safe and also add some buoyancy for the nearly constant swimming. Finally and most importantly, if there's a significant CHANCE of rain, DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS TRIP. You will die in a flash flood and we'll all be reading about you thinking, "What a moron....didn't he see the disclaimer?". Don't be that guy.

Part of Tonto Creek lays in the Hell's Gate Wilderness Area near Payson, AZ. To descend it is to commit to an epic 2.5-4 day hike down what one author calls the "grand daddy of Mongollon Rim canyons". I couldn't agree more.

My roommate (also named Joe) and I successfully navigated this 22 mile trip over 3.5 days by hiking roughly seven miles overland to the confluence of Haigler and Tonto Creeks (the actual "Hell's Gate"). Though this was not an easy portion to open up with, it was a trail. The next 15 miles is more of route: you follow Tonto Creek as it meanders and cuts through red quartzite, pink granite, and numerous volcanic formations gorges, many of them flooded with crystal clear water. To do this, we would rock hop 'til we came to a pool, wade in 'til it got deep, swim to the other side, and repeat with the next section. Yes, it's slow going at about a mile/hour on average, but with the geology changing around every bend, 100 degree temps making the many pools down right inviting, and not another soul in sight for ALL of the trip, we certainly didn't object.

For your viewing pleasure ladies and gentlemen, I give you the mighty Tonto:


One of the first major pools


Near the first night's camp


Polished pink rock (granite?) that dominate a fair portion of the upper canyon


One of the first wades on Day # 2


Undulating shapes and crystal clear water.... perfection


Me cliff jumping into a deep pool just above camp on Day # 2


Other Joe's turn




Okay, so this shot is crap but the smooth gray rock of this section, though brief, was a place I could only have previously imagined. The canyon dropped into this narrow gorge forming small water falls and a natural arch......very cool.



Swimming again



Tidal wave wall



Saguaro x2 and blooming agave at small but wide bend in canyon


100 foot face across from Day # 3's camp


Other Joe navigating the beautiful but slippery pink granite section


More awesome shapes and colors


Me above one of two large waterfalls in the final section of Tonto


Same pool above the waterfall....you could swim right up to the top of the falls and look over

Waterfall from below (easily descended on creek left....the next fall which I didn't get a picture of was much more challenging to descend....some parties may want a rope though that be a pain to carry for 22 miles.....)

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